London: Berners Tavern


After opening Little Social and Social Eating House (review coming up next!) in the West End of London last year, Michelin starred Chef Jason Atherton strikes again with Berners Tavern at the supremely glamorous London EDITION hotel. I’ve written about both Esquina and Keong Saik Snacks, Atherton’s gastronomic gems in Singapore, and it seems to me that this genius is expanding faster and faster in not only Asia, with new restaurants in Hong Kong, Shanghai and soon Dubai, but also in his own hometown of England. And in every restaurant, Jason brings with him what he does best: Delicious modern and elegant British fare that features the very best local produces, but always with a playful and inventive spin. Berners Tavern is no different, but this time, it is housed in a much grander setting.
Firstly, entering via the Edition’s lobby is quite dazzling on its own – marble pillars, opulent chandeliers, framed art that is monumental in scale… But the restaurant itself, with its cavernous high ceiling, elaborate plasterwork ceiling, bronze chandeliers that modeled upon those that adorn New York’s Grand Central Station, gilt-framed paintings and photographs that covered every inch of the walls and lit to a golden glow, and vast, arched windows with gauze drapes, was even more luxurious and splendid.
The food is every bit as lovely – from the refined yet adventurous sounding offerings on the menu, to the ornate plating that comes with just a certain amount of ceremony (pouring of sauce, extra chafing of dishes etc), Atherton pays attention to every single detail just like how the walls are covered with beautiful designs.
Carroll’s vegetarian potato and parsley soup with Breville toastied (£7.5). I love how soups are always so comforting and hearty, and every bad day can be made right with just a delicious soup. But thinking about it, every good soup starts with a good base made with fresh ingredients, after which time and love is needed to build up all that concentrated flavours. This soup was not only warming to the heart, it was seasoned well and had quite an umami feel. The mashed potato still had a bite to them, and was quite a perfect combination to the velvety soup.
“Egg, Ham and Peas” (£8.5): Deep fried Clarence Court duck egg, mushy peas and crispy Cumbrian ham. A variation of a dish served at Social Eating House, what’s better than a perfectly fried duck egg that is crispy on the outside and gooey and rich in the inside, served with crispy salty ham on a bed of delicious smashed minted peas?
BBQ Pulled Pork Sandwich, Pickled cucumber, Slaw and Duck Fat Chips (£12.50). A sandwich that starts with nicely toasted and burnished brioche buns is always a good sign. However, I did feel that the bbq sauce was too overwhelming after a few bites and the supposedly refreshing slaw and pickled cucumber did not help the least bit. Duck fat chips? Absolutely no problem with that though 🙂
Macaroni and Cheese, roasted cauliflower (£16.50). I had expected this Mac & Cheese to be at least similar to the one that I had at Social Eating House but I was wrong! This was waaaaay more creamier than the latter that the pasta was quite literally drowning in melted cheese and cream (if I’m not wrong). I don’t know how they do it here but it seems to me that they use more liquid than cheese because the sauce was not at all stringy. You definitely can’t have this on your own. However, the roasted cauliflower had a slightly caramelised flavour and was quite sweet and delicious! The pasta was cooked al dente as well, so even amongst all that rich liquid sauce, you have a textural contrast to save each of your every bites.
Service as usual was commendable – brilliant and knowledgable. It was a shame that we had to decline the extremely tempting dessert menu as we were full to bursting point from the generous portion sizes. Otherwise, I would definitely have demolished those Warm Cinnamon Donuts coated with 70% Chocolate Ganache served with Almond Sorbet…
Berners Tavern
The London EDITION
10 Berners Street,
London W1T 3NP
Tel: +44 (0)20 7908 7979
This entry was posted in American/New American, Breakfast/Brunch, Cafe, London, Lunch, Travel to eat! :), Vegetarian and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

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